A Thin Line Between Curl and Straight
We have all heard the many horror stories of people of color (specifically, black women) and the seemingly unending struggle between our hair and the world. In the entertainment industry, that can come up in many ways, from discrimination to microaggressive comments, to complete removal from a project (See Gabrielle Union v. America’s Got Talent). But truly, one of the most ridiculous iterations of this reality is….. The Always Under-qualified Hairstylist (AUH).
When you go on a set, or backstage as an actor, model, dancer, or singer, you enter the space ready and willing to do your job. And one would think that every other person in the space is also there to do the same. Yet time and time again, it seems that the standard of knowledge for a job like that does not include the likeness of textured hair. Now, while this should not be a shocking revelation, let's be real, it's 2022. And- if you are planning on hiring people who are not the “standard,” the least you can do is make sure you hire other people who know how to do their jobs.
Now, when working with an AUH, the experience can go many ways. In one instance, I came in with my hair cleaned and natural (as I always do), and the AUH brought me to their chair, gave me a good look, and said “Well, looks like you did my job for me” with a two-handed scrunch on either side of my head to seal the deal. I said thank you and tried my best to quickly shape it before being ushered away from the mirrors. This would be a great exchange if I actually did their job for them, but I didn’t, and now there are random photos of me with a lopsided fro on someone's bible study app.
Another instance is when the AUH doesn't know what they are doing, but wouldn’t dare say it out loud. And unfortunately, the product of that usually involves some misplaced bobby pins and incompatible hairspray. This was another print shoot, for Tinder this time. What's more embarrassing is when you are sent to set and the director/ photographer goes “Can we get hair over here,” I promise I didn't mess it up on the way, this was their intended hairstyle.
And the most recent experience I had with an AUH involved them just simply ‘washing their hands clean of’ the black hair in the cast. Making sure the non-POC cast members got consultations and assistance for the show and boldly stating “but not for Veronica and _____.” That is a bold move.
Imagine coming to work and just choosing not to handle some of your tasks. Unfortunately that’s called discrimination if the “tasks” are people from a specific racial group, but fortunately for the AUH, that is not enough to not get a job. So, I got my hair done outside of the production (that was graciously taken care of by them) and then had to deal with side eyes and comments as if me having to go out of my way to make sure I am my best self on stage was some sort of special treatment.
As someone who works on both sides of the camera, it is truly heartbreaking to see it in action. I once worked as a photography assistant for a magazine shoot that featured little black girls of various hair textures, colors, lengths, and shapes. Everyone is beautiful and magical, and ready to shine in front of the camera. A beautiful little model walked on set, a little nervous, but excited, and immediately we could tell her 4c hair had not been properly styled. When the AUH came over, she brought with her a tiny comb and a clip. After sharing a glance with the photographer, it was quickly agreed upon for me to have to take over to make sure she looked and felt her very best.
(Photo by Glynis Carpenter)
Some may read this post and think I am complaining or attacking hairstylists, but that is not my intention. These moments have such a lasting impact on everyone that has to experience them, especially daily. The hair that grows naturally out of our scalps should not be looked upon as “too much work” or over complicated. It is simply our hair, and we are simply here to do what we love just like everyone else.
As we are coming toward the final quarter of 2022, this seems like the perfect time to make some changes in the industry, whether it's a small-budget short film or a production at the Lincoln center, it's time to hire people who are equipped for the job. Knowing how to style all hair textures should not be an anomaly, it should be the base. And that goes for more than just some thick, or wavy hair; if you don’t have a pick in your bag, question yourself. Hire people who know how to do the whole job, because I will never forget HeadbandGate of High School Musical. If you know, you know.
